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Travelblog Gone with the Wine

Travelblog and lifestyleblog. Life under the Californian sun - Gone with the Wine. Trips, food and wine from all over the world. Solo and family adventures.

Filtering by Tag: Vyborg

A Day in Vyborg, Russia

Paula Gaston

Last time I told you what it was like to sail via Saimaa Canal to Russia. After sailing for five hours, we spent a day in Vyborg and quickly toured around. Just seeing the Saimaa Canal was interesting, but for us, seeing Vyborg was the highlight of this trip. We started our tour from Vyborg Castle and continued towards Lenina park. When a police car drove in front of us with squealing tires and we had to jump out of his way, it really felt like we are on a movie set. And it definitely felt like we were no longer in Finland. Vyborg showed both it’s sides right away.

THE CITY OF VYBORG

Vyborg is located by the Karelian Isthmus on the shores of Vyborg Bay in Russia, and it has about 80,000 inhabitants. In medieval times Vyborg was ruled by the Swedish, then Russians and from 1812 it belonged to the Grand Duchy of Finland. Eventually Finland got it’s independence, and Vyborg was very much part of Finland until after the winter war, when it was returned to Soviet Union. In 1941 Finland tried to annex Vyborg again, but it was lost once more in 1944. Due to this history, there are still many Finnish buildings in Vyborg. Finnish people were evacuated and had to move elsewhere in Finland, and people from the Soviet Union were brought in to inhabit the city. Some Finns later returned to Vyborg in between wars, but they had to leave again when the Soviet Union got Vyborg back in 1944. Due to this history, Vyborg has always had a special meaning for Finns, and many people still feel strongly about it.

Today Vyborg is an industrial city which also gets income from tourism. Besides Vyborg Castle, the sights to see are it’s many stylish old buildings, Market Hall and Montrepo Park. In recent years Vyborg has gone through a face lift and many old buildings have been restored with financial help from Finland.

VYBORG CASTLE

At the end of the day, we didn’t have a lot of time to explore the city since our ferry was really late from it’s schedule. The very first thing we wanted to do was to visit Vyborg Castle which was right next to the harbor. The castle is located on a small island, Linnasalmi, which can be accessed via bridge. Vyborg castle is known for its white tower; The Tower of St. Olav, from where you have a great view to the city.

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Vyborg Castle is the only completely preserved medieval castle in Russia. The construction of this castle started in 1293 and continued through years. Later it has been repaired and built up higher. In 1710 the Russians took over the castle, though it was damaged in a fire in the 1860’s. It was repaired again and survived the Winter War.

We had been told, that the entrance fee to the castle can be anything, depending on who is working that day. Especially for the kids. I guess the local kids have free admission and sometimes they let all the kids go in free, and sometimes they make tourist kids pay. So it is always good to check the fee and opening hours beforehand. The castle museum is usually closed on Mondays. Before purchasing the tickets we realised, that if we go inside the castle we would not have time to see the city itself at all. So we decided to take pictures from outside and skip the tour. Too bad.

THE MANY FACES OF VYBORG - AND THE BUILDINGS

While walking around the city we saw many beautiful buildings. Many of them had deteriorated badly and some had been repaired. There were some gorgeous buildings where the house next to them had broken windows or part of it had even burned. What a contrast! You could clearly see the two different faces of this city. If all the buildings would be repaired, this city would be amazing! In many places we did see construction going, on so it’s good to see that something is being done. We walked all the way to Lenina Park and Red Square, while looking at the buildings and taking photos. We stopped shortly by the playground so our daughter could play with the locals.

While walking, we talked a lot about what the life in today’s Vyborg is like, and what it must have felt like to be evacuated from your home to somewhere else during the wars. I’m sure many of those people have returned now for a visit, but it is impossible to imagine what they must of gone through and what kind of feelings it must have brought up. One of those people is my friend’s mom who was traveling with us, so we actually had somebody with us whose life this has affected immensely.

The Round Tower used to be part of the city wall, now it is a restaurant.

The Round Tower used to be part of the city wall, now it is a restaurant.

Old bank building

Old bank building

Statue of Lenin at Red Square

Statue of Lenin at Red Square

Old City Hall now has apartments.

Old City Hall now has apartments.

Different kind of Vyborg…

Different kind of Vyborg…

THE CITY LIBRARY BY ALVAR AALTO

One of the most interesting buildings in Vyborg is probably the city library designed by the Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. It is located in Lenina park. The building represents functionalism and it was built in 1935. However, it was left to deteriorate badly. During the Soviet Union era some repairs were done, but according to Alvar Aalto, it just got ruined by them and he was bitter for the rest of his life about his work falling into ruin. Later some repairs were done with the help of the Finns, until the Finnish president Tarja Halonen was able to negotiate a budget for it from Putin. The library was completely repaired, and reopened in 2013. Refurbishment was very successful and has gotten two different awards.

The City Library of Vyborg

The City Library of Vyborg

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THE MARKET HALL

While in Vyborg, you should absolutely visit the Market Hall. From there you will find all the traditional souvenirs like matryoshka dolls or viipurinrinkeli (a local twisted bun). We also bought some beautifully painted wooden eggs which will look great during Easter time. They were also selling some crystals and clothes. We were actually looking for a matryoshka doll with Trump’s face, since we had seen some president matryoshkas in St. Petersburg a few years earlier. We thought it would be a great joke to bring back home to California and to give to somebody. We asked about the doll, and we got an answer with perfect Finnish; “No we don’t have one! Yack! We don’t want him here.” Ha ha! So we didn’t find what we were looking for but at least our daughter got to choose one traditional matryoshka doll and bring it home as a souvenir.

The Market Hall of Vyborg

The Market Hall of Vyborg

The Market Hall building was designed by the Finn Karl Hård af Segerstad, and it was built in 1906. It represents the Jugend style. While visiting the Market Hall you should be extra careful with your belongings, since it is said to be prowled by pickpockets. There are two stories in the Market Hall, so don’t forget to visit them both.

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Our trip to Vyborg was both interesting and exciting! We did wish we had more time to explore the city, so if we were to do this gain, we would book an overnight trip instead. But we did enjoy a beautiful summer day in a great company of our good friends!

We Sailed to Russia from Finland through the Saimaa Canal

Paula Gaston

On our summer holiday we mostly drove around Finland, but we did a short trip to Russia also. We sailed to Vyborg via the Saimaa Canal. And even though it was raining cats and dogs in the morning, the day turned out to be quite nice and sunny. A trip to Vyborg was an interesting adventure through history and today's life at the same time. 

SAILING ON SAIMAA CANAL 

We hopped on the MS Carelia in the morning in Lappeenranta, and headed towards Vyborg. Even just the trip through the canal was pretty interesting for me since I have never travelled in a canal like this. The Saimaa Canal was opened in 1856 and it is quite unique since Finland has a 50 year lease with Russia for this area. There is no such thing anywhere else in the world. The canal has a total of 8 locks, with three of them in Finland and 5 on the Russian side. The border crossing is in Lake Nuijamaa. Even though the canal is only 40 kilometres long, it still takes five hours or even more to get to Vyborg. Ships can't go very fast in the canal and a couple times we had to wait for other ships that were in the locks to get out. Our trip back home to Finland was a little faster. 

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The drop down from the highest lock is 12.4 meters and the canal is 6 meters in depth at it's maximum.

The views in the Saimaa canal on a beautiful day are rather nice. In both directions one gets to see how the locks work and to see some huge Russian mansions close to Vyborg. From time to time one can also spot part of the old canal going next to this new and bigger one. We also saw some floating islands which can change their location. Some of them are still held in place by the roots of the plants growing on them. Very fascinating phenomenon! There is also a historical spot close to old Tuohimäki lock that is worth seeing. There is golden text on the rocks which was made to greet the emperors when they passed by. It says Nikolai I and Aleksander II both in Finnish and Russian. The text was made by the sculptor I.A. Deneis. Too bad I missed the photo opportunity there. 

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MS CARELIA

Cruises on the MS Carelia are sold through Saimaatravel, and it has 200 seats. There are two restaurants: one offers lunch and dinner, and the other is more like a cafe type restaurant with a full alcohol license. At the top of the ship one can enjoy the outdoors on the sun deck. We booked a table in the restaurant when we left Finland, and we ended up sitting at the same place for the whole trip to Russia. Usually they have two servings, but since our table had not been sold for the second serving, we got to keep it. It was nice to have a spot where we could all gather up even though we did spend a lot of time outside as well. The food on the ship was great and I can recommend booking either lunch or dinner. The lunch was served as a buffet and came with salad, bread, beverages, coffee and desert. The main course was fish and beef. Kids also got an ice cream cone. When sailing back from Russia we were not so hungry, so we ended up just ordering a soup. Even that was delicious and kept us going all through the rest of the trip. They offered salmon soup with bread. Coffee and cookies for desert. 

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There was also a small play room for kids on the ferry, which was nice, since the cruise hostess told us that there was a record breaking amount of kids on our trip. It still didn't seem like a huge amount though, so I guess the Vyborg cruise isn't the first choice for families. Our hostess for the cruise took really good care of us during our trip, and told us funny stories from history. She had a great personality and really seemed to enjoy her work. We all loved her! On our way back home there was a bingo game for kids and a colouring contest. As a program for adults, they had a one man band. We were happy to have some kind of activities on our way back since we had already seen the views from the ferry on our way to Vyborg. At the very end of our cruise we got to enjoy a beautiful sunset and we stayed on the deck for a while.

The duty free store on the ship sells some souvenirs, candy and beverages and they can also change your euros into rubles. 

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A VISA FREE DAY IN VYBORG

When you take a visa-free cruise to Russia, you can only stay on shore for 72 hours. We did the similar cruise to St. Petersburg a few years ago. We used the visa-free cruise since my husband and kids travel with American passports and getting visas for them while in Finland was complicated and costly. Before arriving in Vyborg, the hostess of the ship did a little info event at the cafe. She told us about the customs formalities, and how to exit the boat. Since the visa-free trip requires some kind of organised program in Vyborg, and we hadn't booked the bus tour, we were given a coffee voucher to the Round Tower.

I highly recommend going to this info session and getting all the tips from the hostess. She warned us that with American passports we might end up in a secondary interview at the border but said not to worry. We were pleasantly surprised that we were not asked anything when entering the country. The hostess also hands out some customs forms and shows you how to fill them out. Each person needs to have their own form. When we got back to the ship, our bags went through a screening and our passports were stamped. When booking the trip we were told that we have approximately three hours in Vyborg which was not the case for us. Since our boat docked late, we only had less than two hours. This was the only down side of the trip and they should inform more clearly when booking this trip, that this might happen. If we would do this again, we would definitely stay the night and come back to the ferry the next day. Other than that, the trip was very well organised.

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More about our day in Vyborg coming soon so stay tuned!